We couldn't decided whether or no to visit. We were
armed with a map and compass (Top Tip No.1, this is
essential, or at least a great help). Within two minutes
of leaving our riad we made a 'friend' who was "not a
guide", apparently. We wandered through a maze of
alleyways, eventually ending up - yes, you have
guessed - at the Tanneries. At the gate a group were
still grasping the handfuls of mint to their noses.
On entry we were also given fresh mint leaves, or as the
locals refer to them, a gas mask. Not a good omen.
Here I offer Top Tip No. 2 - if you feel the need to visit,
go in the early morning. I have a very good sense of
smell, and didn't find it unpleasant, although perhaps
I have become immune to 'unusual' aromas from visits
to India. The scene was grim, certainly not colourful.
The picture shows the lime bath, which removes hair
and other 'things' from the leather. Next up the pigeon
poo bath to soften hide, and then the dye baths.
These were all a bit brown and black.
Conclusion - good to tick off list, curiosity satisfied.
The local do not like their photos taken, except for
money. 'Friends', gatekeepers, et all. also require
cash, as did the man watching us take a photo of
a donkey. Clearly he had nothing to do with said
donkey, but it was another earning opportunity.