Moving on

We were up at 4.00am in time to pack and get to the railway station to buy tickets for our train journey to Palanpur.   The ticket office opened at 6.00am instead of 5.30am as we were informed.   Oh well, it was going to be a long day anyway!

Second class only and for a journey lasting nine hours and stopping at 38 stations it was a bargain price of 70 rupees each (75p).    We settled in our seats with emergency rations of water and biscuits.   There would be plenty of vendors on the various stations selling food, chai and coffee.

We started our journey in the dark and watched the sun rise over the countryside.   At every station there were passengers and the carriages soon became full.   The time went by very quickly.   Plenty of things of interest out of the windows, and the passengers were very chatty.   Where did we come from?   Where were we going?   Did we like India?  Lots of photographs and exchanging of e mail addresses.

Station platforms full of people coming and going.   Luggage, boxes wrapped in calico, chickens in crates, barking dogs, cows, musicians, holy men, groups of Jains on a pilgrimage.    Railway crossing with cars, lorries and motorbikes waiting for the train to pass.   A sign for a bump in the road, with the 'p' missing.   People walking in the country side, where did they come from?   No sign of a village anywhere.

As we neared Palanpur the train slowly emptied of passengers.   One family from Bhuj were travelling to their special temple, only to return again that evening on a 'sleeping' coach.

At Palanpur Samshu was there to greet us with garlands of roses.  He had driven up from Udaipur that morning.    We were heading for Danta only an hour away, but first a cup of chai.

We were in Danta in October and this time I managed to get photographs of the terracotta horses in  the Adivarsi shrine.

big ones

and smaller ones

the size is determined by the wish granted

as the shrine becomes full old and broken images are discarded

We stayed for two nights.    After a long day's travel we had the best sleep ever.   The next night was crazy.   With a wedding going on in the village, which started quietly, all was well.   Then there were the fireworks and the music was ramped up to full volume!    Well, it is the Wedding Season and they did sound like they were having a jolly good time.

Danta, Gujarat

We set off early from Udaipur, along the Abu Road to the Gujarat border.   The first part of our journey was along really good roads, then not so good!

We passed Amberji famous for it's temple dedicated to the goddess Durga.   Being Diwali the town was crowded with visitors visiting the temple.  Soon we were in the countryside again driving up and down hill with rivers and lakes either side.

Danta is a small town, we stayed at Bhanvani Villa, a heritage home.   Our hosts were most welcoming making us feel truly 'at home'.   The food was so good, traditional Gujarati fare.
(www.bhavanivilladanta.com

A visit to an Adivasi village proved enlightening.    They are allowed to clear a part of the forest to live and farm on.  One outcome of this policy is that, over the years, so much jungle has been cleared the leopards and tigers no longer exist in this area.  

Adivarsi ladies selling their produce at Danta market

  

Our two days here passed very quickly.   There were walks in the jungle bird watching.  At the end of the day, afternoon tea in the garden of the farm, sitting with the family as the sun set.   Watching the beautiful Mewar horses trotting to their night quarters, the cows content in their sheds,  walking the fields listening to nature.  Perfect.   

Another visit to a Rabari village, tucked away in the countryside.  It was the end of the day

pink horns and pink goats - decorated for Diwali

the goats are home and hungry

the sheep are on their way

every day they are taken to find food in the countryside

fodder has been gathered

time to relax

and I'll close this post now, hoping it will get through

Blogger is being a little difficult!

Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary

Up early and ready to go, except after our little night excursion, we found three punctures in one tyre, which only took an hour to mend!

We could see the large lake in the distance, a few more miles through winding country lanes and we were there.

breakfast time

village taxi

Down to the lake, where our 'country' boat awaited.   I was not too sure about that, but it would have been ridiculous to sit on the bank.  Luckily a slightly larger vessel appeared.  How to describe it?!!!   Well, think fibreglass structure, very low in the water, and propelled by punting.   Fortunately the waters of Nalsarover Lake are shallow.  We arranged ourselves

on plastic matting placed on the deck, and off we went.  Not quite Venice, but lovely.

the crew

fishermen unloading and sorting their catch

lunch - and they were delicious

lake temple

and so we just glided along  it was a beautiful experience

so quiet and peaceful 

there were thousands of flamingoes

these are getting restless, they have seen us!

I got a bit carried away taking photos of reflections of reeds

it was mesmerising, watching the shapes change as we passed by

reeds being gathered for cattle food

doing the laundry

Back on dry land again after a dreamy hour on the lake.

Fish for lunch, of course.   Packing to do, we leave for Mumbai tonight.

The Little Rann

North of Dhrangadhra lies a land of salt farms, heat mirages, flamingos and other migrating birds, plus the Khur or Asiatic wild ass.    I visited here with my sister Aly in 2009, can it be that long ago!    (see blog post 16.02.09)

I had to take Keith to see the Asiatic wild ass, and whatever else that might be there.  

a boat

which is a strange thing to see in the middle of no where

there are loads of grass covered islands, know as bets, which, during the

monsoon season really do become islands again    when the waters rise

fishermen take boats out and go fishing for shrimps

So that was just a taster.  Next visit we must go stay in the Koba huts again!

Well, all that salty air means a chai stop on the way home

local village warrior stones

In the evening Mr. Singh took us out on a night safari.   I thought it was around the grounds, but it turned out to be his farm, not so far away.  So off we set, with torches, stumbling through the undergrowth, lots of scuffles and strange noises!  We were looking for night jars or hares.  Think they might have gone to bed.  Then there was great excitement,

two porcupines, never seen here before.   Very ghostly looking.  A frog and a nilgli (also know as a Blue Bull) made an appearance as we walked through a field of fodder, which smelt sweet and delicious.  

A stroll around the gardens of OBGH, we could hear a Little Spotted Owl.  

But, enough, time for bed.   We are going on a boat trip tomorrow.

putting my feet up!

Keith and Samshu set off at 6.00 on their journey to Velavadar National Park, home of the Black Buck, and so much more.   It's beautiful, but I have been there before.   A lazy day for me instead I think.

I sorted my photographs, caught up with my Journal, read my book (The Strangler Vine by 
M.J.Carter, based on the East India Company and The Thugees mid 19c) sitting with my feet up on the balcony looking out on the jungley garden.

Watched a whirlwind/ tornado travelling at great speed across farmland.   Fascinating - either dark or light depending on what it picked up.   There were many whirly things flying in the air.

An invitation for evening drinks with Thakore Sahab Rajah P.S. Jhada of Sayla, best kurta I think.   He is such a lovely gentleman and host.   Indeed, it was a great honour to be invited.

©kr

the Durbar Hall

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the royal throne

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our host and his son, owner of The Old Bell Guest House

It was a wonderful evening.  Tales told, songs sung, all in great company   One of the delights of our travels.  We have a vague plan to start with, but then amazing things happen which could not be imagined, and not knowing where you are going or who you will meet along the way!    The Durbar Hall is full of interest.  In the past it must have magnificent, and you can just close your eyes and imagine the gatherings held here.    

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the company

on the road again

this time heading for Sayla in Gujarat, via The Glass Works,

and I have to admit I was very excited about this.   It seems

to have taken years to track down one place that blows

glass which is used for shisha

hidden down a lane, here it is at last

we had to phone ahead to get permission to call and were greeted by

the son of the owner who was very nice.   His father was relaxing on

a charpoi (day bed) in a nice sunny area between the factory and the

'reception area'.   Shoes off.  Shoes on again to enter.    We asked if

we could take photos.   Father became more than irate, and his son

apologised.   My undercover photographer managed to get one

shot, using his camera behind  his back!   Perhaps we were thought

to be industrial spies?!!  The factory was quiet, no blasted furnaces

or glass blowers hard at work.

so what we have here is a pile of blue molten glass, broken 

in to lumps - top right is the edge of the kiln    

A duffer's guide to glass making  

You need silica sand to which is added sodium carbonate and calcium oxide.  Lead oxide

can be added depending on the intended purpose - it produces sparkle.  Other chemical are included to produce colour

Place the mixture in a heat resistant crucible.  The mixture will melt at temperature ranging from 1500 to 2500 c.  Stir to remove bubbles.  At this stage I believe the molten glass is placed in a large mold and broken up when cold.   A method used by Egyptians.

As far as I can make out, the factory only goes into production when orders are placed.   The kiln would be fired up, a selected lump of glass, taken from one of the piles of different colours, heated up in a small crucible and then blown;  coloured  and mirrored glass for inlay or mosaic work.  To produce mirror glass, it is first blown, then melted zinc is poured inside.     For shisha it is sold in big pieces to be cut up elsewhere.

the chimney which must roar out smoke when in full production

These little sparkly mirrors have fascinated me for a very long time!   Over the years I have been told that they are not made any more, probably because the only mirrors available in the UK were the thick machine cut embroidery mirrors.   This set me off on the trial.   Trying to source coloured shisha the general opinion was they only appear if the firing has gone wrong.  Truth to tell, the glass is coloured, zinc added.  Result coloured mirror glass.

Researching the history of shisha on Google or in books comes up with the same information, some of which I now question.   Enough!

at the end of our visit the son gave me two big pieces of silver and gold mirror glass

on the road to Sayla

ladies bringing home feed for their cattle

bunches of bamboo stalks being sold by the road side

and they do fantastic flags

seen flying at temples large and small

We arrived at Sayla as the sun set.   It had been a long and interesting day.

The Old Bell Guest House shone like a beacon through the jungly garden.  Time for slurps, and a few days of relaxation.

home

Arrived back late last night.   A fabulous two weeks which went by too quickly!

Apart from five days in Udaipur, we spent most of the time in the beautiful countryside of Rajasthan and Gujarat.   Far away from cities and any internet connection.   So I have a serious amount of blogging to catch up with.   

a sneak preview of The Tent, in splendid isolation on the farm

days in Bera, not seeing leopards;  catching up with friends who just happened to be in Udaipur at the same time;  a jolly day out to the block printers;  shopping, of course: a visit to the glass factory where mirrors are made; car getting stuck in mud whilst bird watching:  evening drinks with Thakore Sahab Raja and friends;   punting on a lake, full of flamingos taking off in a spectacular manner when got oh so close!   

It's a beautiful day here - blue skies and sunshine, almost like India, except for the temperature.     Bags to unpack, laundry to be done and preparation for two workshops I am taking this week.   Back to reality!   The blog will be visited for updating in quieter moments during the week.

the last leg

Down to the south of Gujarat to Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary which is the 
last refuge of the Asiactic lion. Widespread hunting decimated the population,
they were on the brink of extinction with only 12 left in 1884.

The beautiful forested park covers a huge area, and the numbers of lions
have increased, so much so, there are plans to transfer some to other
states.  

We set off at 5.30am, or we nearly did.   Two punctures called for an
solution which appeared in the shape of a very old rickshaw.   It sounded
like an old traction engine, puffing and spitting along the dark road.
We all squashed in, including our driver clutching one tyre for repair.
Issaf, such a nice man, was dropped of, in the dark, at what looked like
a deserted hut.

Ten minutes later we were at the gate of the Sanctuary queuing for our
permits.   No permits left, so we pulled out the VIP card which worked.

Still dark, and very cold, we set off through the park in an open jeep.
A driver, our forest guide, Keith, Samshu and myself.  Birds were just
waking up.    Monkeys were asleep.  A few spotted deer roaming
through the grasslands, nilgai and sambar deer appearing through the
trees.   We drove on for around two hours.   The sunrise gave hope of
some warmth!   Occasionally we would drive out of the valley, and, 
my goodness, the sun was a welcomed sight.

Did I mention it was Keith's birthday?    Where was that lion?   This
was going to be some birthday present.    We had almost given up hope
when, on the crest of a hill, this magnificent beast appeared,

followed a little later by another one basking in the sun.    Fantastic.



Back for breakfast, and we were starving.  It's hard work stalking lions
Issaf was waiting for us with the car and all punctures fixed.  I found a 
seat in the sun while our stuffed parathas and curd were being
prepared.   Later, after having a shower, I noticed weired red rings on my
legs.   Goodness, had I been bitten by something nasty?    No, it turned
out they were chilblains, things of distant memory when sitting too close
to an open fire on cold winter days.   Who would have thought this would
happen after sitting on a hot stone wall warming up after a chilly start
to the day?!!

Moving up the north coast the next stop was Valavadar National Park,
Blackbuck sanctuary.

The countryside here reminded me of an African savanna, tall golden
grasses, interspersed with single low trees.    The blackbuck are beautiful
creatures, their horns resemble barley sugar twists.

Then there were nilgai, also known as blue cows

We spent a happy couple of hours driving through the park.  On the south side were
lakes full of winter migrants, various ducks, wonderfully coloured little birds darting
in and out of bushes.   Oh, so peaceful.

Lotus flowers coming into bloom

there had to be an elephant - we noticed this one as we were

passing a small village

Our friend, and guide, Samshu (and the lovely toran over the door has machine cut shisha!)

And so our wanderings came to an end.    Overnight train from Amedhabad to

Mumbai.   Two days to catch up with some shopping and then the flight home.

We stay by the harbour in Mumbai, the other end of the road from the Taj and

the Gateway to India.    The usual routine on leaving day is to pack, have breakfast,

followed by a quick stroll up to The Gateway to India.   A bit of a boo hoo, then

taxi to the airport.

This time we could hear the strains of a military band.   Oh, I do like that sound,

and what a send off.

It was a naval band, plenty of flags fore and aft.   In the middle of the parade,

young girl sea cadets.   They were practising for a big event I would guess.

the tail end

outside the Taj Hotel the girls are giving it their all.   The complete rendition of the
Sailor's Hornpipe, including all actions.   It fair brought a tear to my eye.

We arrived in India tired and exhausted, and returned fully restored, except I was
so chilled out it has taken some time to get round to doing things that should be
done - like my blog!