On the road to Udaipur

After the delights of Balotra we headed back south, stopping over night
at The Royal Palace, Ghanerao,

 the main gate

the view from the roof

A totally lazy day for me.   Keith went leopard hunting with a group of friends,
on foot, accompanied by two guides, a young boy with stick and a man on a bicycle.   
A leopard came down from a hill looking for supper, probably a goat or farm dog.
Photos taken before a hasty retreat.

Meanwhile I spent time on out balcony catching up with my journal and reading.I did have a visitor, a civet cat.  Not sure who was more surprised.   It had come down from the roof.   We looked at each other, then it jumped to the next ledge.   Keith was a tad disappointed to hear I had no photographic evidence!

The camera did come out to record some of the lovely textiles in the room.

patchwork cushion 

detail

applique diamonds, patched centre block

with the tiniest sawtooth points

on the wall behind our bed a marvellous wall hanging

cut work applique, it sparkled with sequins and mirrors

really difficult to photograph and too big for me

to manhandle, so a few details

and finally a lovely old textile slowly fading away

the background looks like linen

the outline of the shapes is stitched with a cotton thread

the petals a closed herring bone stitch in silk or rayon

the threads are worn away in places

only the outline stitches are left

Balotra

So, at last, to Balotra.

There are so many huge silk printing factories on the outside of town.   The River Luni and it's surroundings  are stained with discharged chemicals.     Many of the traditional block printers, or Chippas, now work in these factories.   

Our "man who knew"  directed us through the winding alleys of the old town

a little distraction - the woven base of a charpoy (Indian bed) propped up against a wall.   

I really do need one of these!!!

Around the corner the block printers busily working

making new printing blocks called buntas or buntis    they are generally made of 

seasoned sisam wood     the blocks are carved by hand and an intricate one

can take up to five days to complete    the blocks last for 1000-1500 metres  

that's a lot of printing

printing with indigo mixed with dabu (mud) paste as a resist

design printed with dabu resist   the print is dusted with fine sawdust

to prevent the design from smudging as the next section is printed,

and seals the printed portion from the subsequent dyeing process

and this is the printer in my book, how amazing   he had never seen

the picture before and was quite overcome  I will send a copy to him

And, finally, the rigorous beating and washing process

cloth laid out in the sun to dry

kuttar print

the distinctive Balotra prints we were searching for

the family have been printing the cotton cloth for over 150 years

the workshops are lined with shelves full of printing blocks

So exciting  must return for a longer visit in November

to Bhadrajun

 Early start, travelling north to the small town of Bhadrajun.   Through the country side 
on single, but good, roads.    No lorries, mainly tractors, cars, and motorbikes, one being driven by Hanuman the Monkey God.   We were so surprised, but then as is often said 
by Samshu 'this is India'.

Flat fertile land, with the occasional mountain in the distance.  As many goat and sheep 
as you would wish to see.  Flamingos and cranes, camels both wild and domestic.

We passed through small villages, everyone very friendly and helpful when we asked the way.    Look, these lovely ladies are wearing ghaggra/skirts made from Balotra block printed fabric.   

The print denotes they are married women whose husband is still alive. A border is 
added to the hem.   This plain strip, with slim yellow piping was once appreciated 
as the traditional symbol of married women in Rajasthan.

They were delightful.  Although we had little common language they understood my 
mime, indicating the lovely swirl of their ghaggra, and we all had a good giggle.    
Can you imagine, a whole ten metres of cloth is deemed sufficient to make a skirt.

Eventually we reach Bhadrajun Fort, sitting nicely at the foot of a hill.

It's small, friendly and still the family home of Raja Gopal Singh.   We were welcomed and took lunch, rather disturbingly surrounded with photographs showing dead animals.  Hmmm.  Still that was then and this is now.

A rest and stroll through the small village, which seems deserted.  We learn that all the houses are new, most people work in the small town below, returning to the village in
the evening.   A baori/step well with turtles and frogs.   Ruins of the original fort walls.   Keith stopped for a game of cricket with village boys.    

At supper we were joined by our host.   A charming gentleman, who told us the history of the Fort and surrounding area.    On hearing our quest, he kindly gave us a letter of introduction to help us, once we arrived in Balotra.

On the way to Balotra

Part One

I like to have a quest, something to seek for, as part of the journey.

I have a book published by Anokhi on the distinctive block printing

produced in Baltora.  A couple of years ago we found our way there

and were unsuccessful, however I knew it was worth investigating

once more.

We left Udaipur for our first destination, Ghanero.    A three hour

drive through the Rajasthan countryside.   It this time of year the 

land and hills look quite barren and dry, apart from small trees and

shrubs.   Once the monsoons arrive the land will burst into colour.

We stopped for chai and bird spotting along the way.    Hawks, eagles,

bejewelled  sunbirds, flowers peckers  and grey hornbills   Monkeys 

sitting along the road to Ranakpur.   A stash of bananas in the car were

very carefully thrown out for them to eat, but we had to quickly close

the windows!  

the Flame of the Forest makes a very dramatic appearence

orange flowers with a dark centre  the trees are

valued by farmers because it

produces excellent 

firewood and can stand drastic lopping

a dye from the flowers was formerly used to make

the coloured water thrown at the Holi festival

red silk-cotton tree

no leaves, these will appear after the flowers finish

each flower is almost as big as my hand

pollenated by birds, they drop to the ground while

still fresh and are eaten by deer

The seeds burst open and release fine white silky

cotton threads    too short to be spun, they are collected

to make kapok, a stuffing  for pillows and cushions

a shepherd gathering his flock

believed me there were hundreds of sheep/goats

and so to The Royal Castle in the village of Ghanerao

over 400 years old it is quite a place to stay

a warren of corridors and staircases so easy to get lost

one small portion of the palace

the floor with the lovely windows was ours for two nights

our sitting room looking over an inner courtyard

inside another sitting room and bedroom

the bathroom was reached by a corridor running

along the windows

great for sneek peeps at the Bollywood movie being filmed below!

We spent a couple of days relaxing and exploring.

In one very small village we found a boy weaving durries using

rags of all textures from silk to towels.   Sounds odd doesn't it?!!

No selective process at all and it works.   My goodness he was

a fast weaver, a bit of a job to get a good picture.

Of course we had to purchase a couple of small mats!

Circle

it was warm behind glass

enough to make a small indigo vat

while you are waiting

some packaging

embroidery glass

incense sticks

I took a workshop yesterday so Tuesday was mainly spent

gathering samples, notes and materials.    Today

putting everything back in place

the sun was shining   the wind cold   temp 4c

as I type there is a flurry of snow

this is getting ridiculous

there and back again

returned from India this morning   no blogging whilst I was away

we were travelling through northern Rajasthan visiting small

villages, forts and palaces, as far away as anything as you could wish

we met weavers, block printers, village people, farmers, and had

supper with a Maharajah

back to Udaipur for Holi and the Festival of Colours to celebrate

the coming of Spring   it was amazing mad fun

I'll be recording our travels over the next week or so but first the

unpacking;  the dhobiwallah does an incredible job, our freshly 

laundered only have to be put back in the cupboard until the

next trip    how good is that?!!

then there will be the strange hours of waking up on Indian

time, which usually means I get a lot done at 4.30am!

coloured powders for Holi