on the road again

this time heading for Sayla in Gujarat, via The Glass Works,

and I have to admit I was very excited about this.   It seems

to have taken years to track down one place that blows

glass which is used for shisha

hidden down a lane, here it is at last

we had to phone ahead to get permission to call and were greeted by

the son of the owner who was very nice.   His father was relaxing on

a charpoi (day bed) in a nice sunny area between the factory and the

'reception area'.   Shoes off.  Shoes on again to enter.    We asked if

we could take photos.   Father became more than irate, and his son

apologised.   My undercover photographer managed to get one

shot, using his camera behind  his back!   Perhaps we were thought

to be industrial spies?!!  The factory was quiet, no blasted furnaces

or glass blowers hard at work.

so what we have here is a pile of blue molten glass, broken 

in to lumps - top right is the edge of the kiln    

A duffer's guide to glass making  

You need silica sand to which is added sodium carbonate and calcium oxide.  Lead oxide

can be added depending on the intended purpose - it produces sparkle.  Other chemical are included to produce colour

Place the mixture in a heat resistant crucible.  The mixture will melt at temperature ranging from 1500 to 2500 c.  Stir to remove bubbles.  At this stage I believe the molten glass is placed in a large mold and broken up when cold.   A method used by Egyptians.

As far as I can make out, the factory only goes into production when orders are placed.   The kiln would be fired up, a selected lump of glass, taken from one of the piles of different colours, heated up in a small crucible and then blown;  coloured  and mirrored glass for inlay or mosaic work.  To produce mirror glass, it is first blown, then melted zinc is poured inside.     For shisha it is sold in big pieces to be cut up elsewhere.

the chimney which must roar out smoke when in full production

These little sparkly mirrors have fascinated me for a very long time!   Over the years I have been told that they are not made any more, probably because the only mirrors available in the UK were the thick machine cut embroidery mirrors.   This set me off on the trial.   Trying to source coloured shisha the general opinion was they only appear if the firing has gone wrong.  Truth to tell, the glass is coloured, zinc added.  Result coloured mirror glass.

Researching the history of shisha on Google or in books comes up with the same information, some of which I now question.   Enough!

at the end of our visit the son gave me two big pieces of silver and gold mirror glass

on the road to Sayla

ladies bringing home feed for their cattle

bunches of bamboo stalks being sold by the road side

and they do fantastic flags

seen flying at temples large and small

We arrived at Sayla as the sun set.   It had been a long and interesting day.

The Old Bell Guest House shone like a beacon through the jungly garden.  Time for slurps, and a few days of relaxation.

a jolly day out

We planned to stay in Udaipur for a couple of day before heading off to Gujarat.   By a wonderful coincidence my friend Nancy and her husband Michael arrived in Udaipur for a short stay.   They were staying in the same hotel, in fact, three rooms down from us.

We had supper on the roof, exchanging news, breakfast together in the morning when we put together a plan for a little excursion to Akola to visit the block printers.

a fellow traveller - you might just be able to see his turban matches the bullocks' horns

we had a slight diversion due to road works, and came upon a lovely village 

Nancy and me standing in front of this

an old haveli in much need of a little care and attention

but still beautiful in a shabby chic sort of way

detail

blue door

repairing the roof

After the delightful stopover, legs stretched, we set off on the road to Akola.    Not so far from our destination, Nancy spotted activity behind a hedge!    We stopped to find rinsing of block printed cloth going on.

obviously indigo cloth!  the gentleman was giving it a good

old bash, and if you look closely you will see he has only

half his right leg   quite amazing

the rinsing water is channelled away through the fields, watched by a goat

in case you are wondering, I throw my exhausted vat over the garden

and my plants are quite happy!

leaning over the well this old wheel set in a forked 

piece of wood  - used for threading the rope through

to pull up the water

Akola and the block printers

a pot of turmeric ready for printing

boy sieving mud for dhabu paste, whilst checking his phone

the entrance to Mr. Pintoo and Rakesh

Bherulai Chhipa (chhipa - member of the block

printing community)

Oops, Keith managed to catch me coming of

the showroom clutching a bag!

A perfect day in good company.

Notes:   I haven't included pix ofblock printed fabric this time, but if you are interested in the process, together with tie dyeing,  Keith has put together a series of photos taken at various block printers and dyers we've spent time with in Rajasthan.

For the eagle eyed.   One reader has already asked the question - why the sock?!!

Well, we had a little accident in the jeep when leaving the bogged down car.   No mention made until we told the boys on our return home.    The steering rod broke and we ended up in a ditch.    Sitting in the front, I had a few bruises and put my back out, which is a mere nothing compared with Keith.  He slid along the back seat and came in contact with the roll bar.   We were with the head man's son so help arrived quickly.   Keith was taken to hospital and had thirty-six stitches in his ear.   All fine now.   We were very lucky.

The turban swap photo had to be photoshopped to remove any sign of bandage.   Blast, I forgot about my sock!

retail therapy

Back at Lake Pichola Hotel, early morning the fisherman are busy

                                                ©kr

Breakfast done - vegetable cutlets, stuffed pakora and curd, yum, we are all set up for a little shopping. 

Samshu arrives in his tuk tuk and we are off.   Whilst Keith and Samshu arrange train tickets from Ahmedabad to Mumbai, I popped into the Majestic Emporium, great name!

This is a very overdue visit.   I've known the owner for years, and since he has had this shop

I have been invited to step inside.  Well, you know how it is.    Arriving, leaving, meeting people, no time.    So, I made time, and purchased this rather fine wrap.

a beautifully soft silk with an outrageous patterned piece

on the other side.   Rows and rows of running stitch, it drapes

nicely and is a delight to wear.  Made by ladies from Pakistan.

a small tin trunk - I simply cannot come home without

some kind of metal item.    I am working up to a 

really large trunk one day.  However, this little one

was a perfect container for something special.

Keith and Samshu went gentleman shopping, so I relaxed

in the tuk tuk and watched the world go by.

I love this window, and with a little adjustment, I managed

to get rid of most of the electric wires all over the wall.

They looked like massed spiders' nests.

Just down the lane is the vegetable market - this lady asked me to take a 

photo of her and her baby.  I will give her a copy when I return in the Autumn.

Meanwhile, I spied this magnificent Sadhu.  He was not a small man!

©kr

My man bought me a plain silver chain and another silver bracelet,

this one has camels on it.   Those who know me will not be surprised,

though I am thinking I need a longer arm!

Oh look, more wood blocks!  

who could resist?

and Ileyas made a gift of my very own block

we had lunch in between shopping with Samshu's family

and finished up watching the sun set over Lake Pichola

nice day

To Udaipur

As far as Indian journeys go, this one was quite leisurely.  Only three hours driving time and on roads that are not plagued with mad lorry drivers.  Plenty of time to stop, just to look plus, of course, the necessary cup of chai.

the back window of our car   it seems to have a passion for collecting labels

last November the police 'borrowed' it for the election campaign, so it was

sporting an 'Official Election Car' sticker and the necessary red light on roof

this time we have a sticker from the film company, Car No 031, this caused

quite a lot of excitement when we stopped.   I just had to wear my dark

glasses, travelling incognito, don't you know. 

I wonder if the collection will have multiplied by our return in October

this is a typical rural scene in Rajasthan.  It's a water well.  The two

two cows walk round and round drawing the water which is pumped

on to the fields.  Note the lady sitting on a little seat,  encouraging

the cows to keep on going, and the man, just checking!

So, we stopped here and there, and eventually to stretch

our legs and have a cup of refreshing chai.   You might gather that I

love chai, which is strange as I do not drink tea at home!

A bus pulled up for a rest break,  hmm, chai and nibbles time for the passengers.

what to eat?  

 a little rest in the fresh air

and then it is time to get back on the bus

only another hour to go for us, and we are back in Udaipur for three days

Lake Sena

Another visit to Lake Sena, this time via the farmers fields.   A cloud of dust revealed a vast movement of cattle with their colourful herders.

the cattle

the sheep 

 ©kr

a shepherd

a family riding in  bullock cart

©kr

and moi relaxing amidst the beautiful scenery

back to The Tent and lunch, before setting off to the Royal Castle Hotel Ghanerao to break 

our journey to Udaipur.

We have stayed there many times, yet another 'home' in Rajasthan.   No other guests this time, so we have the whole place to ourselves.   If you look at the website, one of the rooms we have stayed in is No. 5.   Fabulous textiles!   The staff, now friends -  they are very welcoming and helpful.

we spent the day enjoying the countryside  bird watching, with the hawkeyed samshu!

and glimpsing through a dried wood hedge, a field of marigolds being picked for market

So, on the road again, passing the rag rug man as we leave Ghanerao

Note.  I have nabbed a few of Keith photos, with his permission of course!   Credit, where credit is due, they are marked with ©kr.     He can see over fences and hedges.  I am a "spotter' for possible sneeky pix, see the sadhu in the next post or two.

Bera Rajasthan

The Tent continued

on entering the tent there is a little veranda

for morning chai or evening slurps

I was not disappointed regarding a Mugal theme.

A four poster bed, very comfortable.  Out of frame

to the left a rather swanky wardrobe and in the 

corner to the right a dressing table. plus a little

table and chairs

the bathroom 

all very glamping and certainly better than the ex cowshed

outside at night all sorts of noises could be heard

best not explored and we were safely zipped in

against invaders

We arrived late afternoon.  Having taken chai we took to the hill searching for leopards.  Nothing stirred, although perhaps they already had?   So back to the farm for supper and the joy of sleeping in The Tent.

The 'boy' brought us chai at 7.30, very nice!    A quick breakfast before setting out to Lake Sena, a short distance away.    The scenery is beautiful.  People working in the fields, harvesting mustard and wheat.  

two ladies taking a break

 The lake has a background of pale pointed hills.

a not very distinct picture of flamingos!

Wildfowl abounded.   It was just so peaceful

being there

the photographer, he looks happy, no?

Keith is having a grand time with his new

lens (so much more powerful than mine)

His photos of this trip will be up on his

website,   over the coming days

whilst we were enjoying the scenery no one noticed that

the car had sunk into the not quite dry ground - this was

covered in water last November, the lake is drying out

and will become large again after the monsoon

we tried digging out some of the mud under the tyre,

adding dried grass, twigs and stones on the tracks, all

to no avail

'someone' had another go, which made matters worse

so a tractor was summoned to pull us out

Even more time to relax under the Indian sun and enjoy the surroundings!

All's well that ends well

The evening was spent around the camp fire.  Drinks and

nibbles all round, not to mention fun and games.

Swop the head gear.   Our host, on the left is holding his

beret, and wearing the 'boys' turban,  not sure who's turban

Keith is wearing!   Meanwhile, in the background the 'boy'

is enjoying the game.    Such a nice man, always smiling

and so helpful.   Without his turban he looks so different.

With it, he is majestically tall.

And so to bed.

home

Arrived back late last night.   A fabulous two weeks which went by too quickly!

Apart from five days in Udaipur, we spent most of the time in the beautiful countryside of Rajasthan and Gujarat.   Far away from cities and any internet connection.   So I have a serious amount of blogging to catch up with.   

a sneak preview of The Tent, in splendid isolation on the farm

days in Bera, not seeing leopards;  catching up with friends who just happened to be in Udaipur at the same time;  a jolly day out to the block printers;  shopping, of course: a visit to the glass factory where mirrors are made; car getting stuck in mud whilst bird watching:  evening drinks with Thakore Sahab Raja and friends;   punting on a lake, full of flamingos taking off in a spectacular manner when got oh so close!   

It's a beautiful day here - blue skies and sunshine, almost like India, except for the temperature.     Bags to unpack, laundry to be done and preparation for two workshops I am taking this week.   Back to reality!   The blog will be visited for updating in quieter moments during the week.