Bera and Ghanero

We spent a couple of nights 'glamping' on the farm.   A warm welcome especially as on our last visit in Feb/Mar we had the little accident.    The tent already had residents.   A gecko was living under the rim of the loo, however, after a couple of flushes it decided that this was probably not the des res he thought it was.

this is the other occupant in the bathroom

 

a beautiful cricket about the size of my little finger - mint green and chocolate

On to the gorgeous Lake Sena for an evening stroll/drive.   Change of seasons, this time plenty of water, different crops - corn, cucumbers, marrows and mustard seedlings. Cliff swallows picking up lumps of mud to carry on their beaks to the nest building site.

Oops! we take the wrong track, shall we say off road?

deja vue - last time it was mud

with the help of a boy and two farmers and a passer by

the car gained firm ground

the cows being taken home for the night

Early next day another trip to Lake Sena by a different route, watching birds and keeping an eye open for leopards.    Lunch at the farm.  Rest in the afternoon before setting out leopard sighting again.    A new road, as they say around here.   Through small villages, farms and jungle.   Our guide could see a leopard relaxing on a rock.    It was beautiful.   We sat and watched for ages.    Eventually he strolled up the mountains side to be joined by his mate.

Time to move on from Bera to Ghanerao, about a three hour trip, which can take forever, with various stops.    Chai, the green pigeon tree, camels, buildings, temples all catch the eye.    We reach Granerao early evening, so relax have supper and so to bed.

the flower market

stopping for chai and a snack

katuri(?) pastry enclosing chili and dhal

delicious

two farmers enjoying an early morning chillum

of so called strong tobacco whilst the cook looks on

one happy man

We had a couple days in Udaipur to catch up, get the laundry done and try the Internet connection.   Now to publish.  Fingers crossed!  Off again tomorrow, destination Bundi.   

a jolly day out

We planned to stay in Udaipur for a couple of day before heading off to Gujarat.   By a wonderful coincidence my friend Nancy and her husband Michael arrived in Udaipur for a short stay.   They were staying in the same hotel, in fact, three rooms down from us.

We had supper on the roof, exchanging news, breakfast together in the morning when we put together a plan for a little excursion to Akola to visit the block printers.

a fellow traveller - you might just be able to see his turban matches the bullocks' horns

we had a slight diversion due to road works, and came upon a lovely village 

Nancy and me standing in front of this

an old haveli in much need of a little care and attention

but still beautiful in a shabby chic sort of way

detail

blue door

repairing the roof

After the delightful stopover, legs stretched, we set off on the road to Akola.    Not so far from our destination, Nancy spotted activity behind a hedge!    We stopped to find rinsing of block printed cloth going on.

obviously indigo cloth!  the gentleman was giving it a good

old bash, and if you look closely you will see he has only

half his right leg   quite amazing

the rinsing water is channelled away through the fields, watched by a goat

in case you are wondering, I throw my exhausted vat over the garden

and my plants are quite happy!

leaning over the well this old wheel set in a forked 

piece of wood  - used for threading the rope through

to pull up the water

Akola and the block printers

a pot of turmeric ready for printing

boy sieving mud for dhabu paste, whilst checking his phone

the entrance to Mr. Pintoo and Rakesh

Bherulai Chhipa (chhipa - member of the block

printing community)

Oops, Keith managed to catch me coming of

the showroom clutching a bag!

A perfect day in good company.

Notes:   I haven't included pix ofblock printed fabric this time, but if you are interested in the process, together with tie dyeing,  Keith has put together a series of photos taken at various block printers and dyers we've spent time with in Rajasthan.

For the eagle eyed.   One reader has already asked the question - why the sock?!!

Well, we had a little accident in the jeep when leaving the bogged down car.   No mention made until we told the boys on our return home.    The steering rod broke and we ended up in a ditch.    Sitting in the front, I had a few bruises and put my back out, which is a mere nothing compared with Keith.  He slid along the back seat and came in contact with the roll bar.   We were with the head man's son so help arrived quickly.   Keith was taken to hospital and had thirty-six stitches in his ear.   All fine now.   We were very lucky.

The turban swap photo had to be photoshopped to remove any sign of bandage.   Blast, I forgot about my sock!

To Udaipur

As far as Indian journeys go, this one was quite leisurely.  Only three hours driving time and on roads that are not plagued with mad lorry drivers.  Plenty of time to stop, just to look plus, of course, the necessary cup of chai.

the back window of our car   it seems to have a passion for collecting labels

last November the police 'borrowed' it for the election campaign, so it was

sporting an 'Official Election Car' sticker and the necessary red light on roof

this time we have a sticker from the film company, Car No 031, this caused

quite a lot of excitement when we stopped.   I just had to wear my dark

glasses, travelling incognito, don't you know. 

I wonder if the collection will have multiplied by our return in October

this is a typical rural scene in Rajasthan.  It's a water well.  The two

two cows walk round and round drawing the water which is pumped

on to the fields.  Note the lady sitting on a little seat,  encouraging

the cows to keep on going, and the man, just checking!

So, we stopped here and there, and eventually to stretch

our legs and have a cup of refreshing chai.   You might gather that I

love chai, which is strange as I do not drink tea at home!

A bus pulled up for a rest break,  hmm, chai and nibbles time for the passengers.

what to eat?  

 a little rest in the fresh air

and then it is time to get back on the bus

only another hour to go for us, and we are back in Udaipur for three days

Bera Rajasthan

The Tent continued

on entering the tent there is a little veranda

for morning chai or evening slurps

I was not disappointed regarding a Mugal theme.

A four poster bed, very comfortable.  Out of frame

to the left a rather swanky wardrobe and in the 

corner to the right a dressing table. plus a little

table and chairs

the bathroom 

all very glamping and certainly better than the ex cowshed

outside at night all sorts of noises could be heard

best not explored and we were safely zipped in

against invaders

We arrived late afternoon.  Having taken chai we took to the hill searching for leopards.  Nothing stirred, although perhaps they already had?   So back to the farm for supper and the joy of sleeping in The Tent.

The 'boy' brought us chai at 7.30, very nice!    A quick breakfast before setting out to Lake Sena, a short distance away.    The scenery is beautiful.  People working in the fields, harvesting mustard and wheat.  

two ladies taking a break

 The lake has a background of pale pointed hills.

a not very distinct picture of flamingos!

Wildfowl abounded.   It was just so peaceful

being there

the photographer, he looks happy, no?

Keith is having a grand time with his new

lens (so much more powerful than mine)

His photos of this trip will be up on his

website,   over the coming days

whilst we were enjoying the scenery no one noticed that

the car had sunk into the not quite dry ground - this was

covered in water last November, the lake is drying out

and will become large again after the monsoon

we tried digging out some of the mud under the tyre,

adding dried grass, twigs and stones on the tracks, all

to no avail

'someone' had another go, which made matters worse

so a tractor was summoned to pull us out

Even more time to relax under the Indian sun and enjoy the surroundings!

All's well that ends well

The evening was spent around the camp fire.  Drinks and

nibbles all round, not to mention fun and games.

Swop the head gear.   Our host, on the left is holding his

beret, and wearing the 'boys' turban,  not sure who's turban

Keith is wearing!   Meanwhile, in the background the 'boy'

is enjoying the game.    Such a nice man, always smiling

and so helpful.   Without his turban he looks so different.

With it, he is majestically tall.

And so to bed.

home

Arrived back late last night.   A fabulous two weeks which went by too quickly!

Apart from five days in Udaipur, we spent most of the time in the beautiful countryside of Rajasthan and Gujarat.   Far away from cities and any internet connection.   So I have a serious amount of blogging to catch up with.   

a sneak preview of The Tent, in splendid isolation on the farm

days in Bera, not seeing leopards;  catching up with friends who just happened to be in Udaipur at the same time;  a jolly day out to the block printers;  shopping, of course: a visit to the glass factory where mirrors are made; car getting stuck in mud whilst bird watching:  evening drinks with Thakore Sahab Raja and friends;   punting on a lake, full of flamingos taking off in a spectacular manner when got oh so close!   

It's a beautiful day here - blue skies and sunshine, almost like India, except for the temperature.     Bags to unpack, laundry to be done and preparation for two workshops I am taking this week.   Back to reality!   The blog will be visited for updating in quieter moments during the week.

taking a short break

here's a clue

After months of the English monsoon and grey days, it seems a good idea to visit our friends who live in a warm and blue sky place.   

We're off to Rajasthan for a couple of weeks.    Rest and recuperation, ready for what looks to be a busy time on my return.

As ever, I'll blog as and when I can.

meetings on the road

images of fellow travellers

a detour from Ghanerao to visit a dam - checking out

birds and a possible future fishing venue

I made myself comfortable, enjoyed the surrounding

countryside and was joined by a local farmer

as Mark Tulley says - you're never alone in India

we had a conversation of sorts but he really wanted

his photograph taken   he was a very happy man

and I have a theory that most photographs are for

official purposes which require a serious face

the durry man giving a demonstration on turban tying

before rushing us off to see the weaving

the durry is in the sun  the weaver is hidden in shadow

looking the other way into the light

amazing horns

elephant gate and sleeping dog

time for chai so we could get some photos of a caravan of tribals

on the move with donkeys carrying little kids in bags

the ladies were in charge of this section

bring up the rear, the men  with the goats

best I can do, they will keep moving

the joys of being on the road in India!

Ghanerao

It's good to be back again.    Off the main road, up through the busy small towns you arrive at Ghanerao Palace, now a Heritage Hotel.      We stayed here last March, and the main courtyard was full of equipment for the Bollywood movie being filmed in the palace.

It was to have been three days wandering the countryside, alas my foot is still not 100% but I can enjoy the peace and tranquillity.  Our little courtyard is only one floor up, and the courtyard for dining, is one narrow staircase on the net floor.

Every evening two coach loads of tourists arrive, they change, have dinner, go to bed and disappear around 7.30 am.   They all appear to be on a mind numbing tour of Rajasthan.
Fifteen days from Delhi, covering all the major cities, and back again.  That's a lot of sight seeing and travelling.   Far to much to take in everything and enjoy the experience.

One night the Spanish groups' leader complained about everything and seemed to spend most of the evening dashing hither and thither.  Whilst the French contingent took thing at a slower place, managed to lose themselves, so we acted as guides and Keith was taken as a member of staff by a lady complaining of a dirty towel   Oh, well, we did our best!

Keith's birthday, and he is fishing.   Enjoying the process, but no fish,

Myself, I am laying on a rug enjoying the sun!

At night we go to sleep accompanied by the sound of fireworks and music.   It's the Wedding Season, and they sure know how to party.   It seems the most auspicious time for the actual ceremony is 2.00am.   Can you imagine?!!

Leaving the Palace one morning, just outside we found the groom on his horse surrounded by his family ready to start his procession.

the band

the men of the family  having a grand time

and the ladies

the groom set off on his big adventure

(looking rather worried)

the village store

the days were spent leisurely.  Keith and Samshu wandering,

whilst I found somewhere to sit in the sun with my binoculars

no complaints