out of the baskets

A splendid workshop on Saturday, with wonderful enthusiastic students.

the baskets of Banjara work investigated

this one has a collection of dowry and envelope bags

in here a collection of stitched squares and small bags

the shiny piece at the top is a 'hair band' all jingly with

bells, mirrors and paise (old coinage)

I had no idea my collection was so large!

I have been gathering over the years

this piece was bought in Goa

it looks very dirty, but, in fact is is old

I think the threads were dyed with natural dyes and

over the years have faded    the brighter colours might

be from 'fast' dyes or, perhaps chemical dyes

the actual size of the piece is 34 x 24 cm

the stitches are so tiny a magnifying lens is needed

to really study them

amongst the treasures, this little piece

I spend the morning on Baga beach, Goa, stitching with

Anil, Laxmi and Rajeh - lovely memories

so a happy day was spent - after studying the textiles that spilled 

out from the baskets, each student worked on a piece of fabric

measuring 20 x 20c, taking inspiration from the colours,

stitching, and embellishments.

interesting work in the making  I'm looking forward to seeing

some finished pieces when next we meet

a lovely end to the Summer 2014 workshops

Surfacing

A little break  from grey skies, wind and rain.   The sun is shining, which makes taking photos a doddle.

I have been busy stitching on the Kurta quilt.   Binding is now on, it just needs hemming, a job for spare minutes.   Determined to finish it before the end of the month.   I'11 post the finished quilt towards the end of the week.    Nothing like a double deadline.

Meanwhile the thread dyeing fest is on going, on days when I can see what colours I've mixed.   The heater in the conservatory makes a little difference, from freezing to slightly cold.   My dyes and batched threads come into my room, just to keep them warm.

the first batch

I'll be back in the dye pots this week

Banjara

A few years ago we spent a week in north Goa.   Nearby was Ajanta with it's weekly market.

Lots of Banjara work for sale.  Yummy.

Banjara squares

Banjara man's belt - detail

it measures 80  x 16 cm

During the season Lamani (sub caste of Banjara) travel from Kanartaka to Goa, the boys working in the beach shacks and the women selling textiles, beads, etc to tourists.

Having lunch at our favourite beach shack one of the boys just had to inspect my purchases.  He told me his mother did this kind of stitching, and taught him.   No mention of girls here!   They kept close to their temporary homes

So, next day we took the bus to the nearby town.  In the market fabric was purchased, along with thread and needles.   Not quite so easy as popping into a quilting shop.   Needles were the most difficult.   Several ladies, sitting on cloths, produced tins containing needles, just had to find the right tin with the right size.

Back at our hotel I thought a little practice on the technique might be a good idea.   Taking inspiration from the belt, I marked out the gird with soap, and started stitching.

                         

this is as far as I got

I unearthed this little treasure whilst looking for something else!

On the beach next morning my little piece was greeted with cries of "Kanarta!" so I guess I got something right.   I was joined by eight Lamani boys, ages ranging from eight to 18.   We sat and stitched, talked and laughed.    A fabulous opportunity to watch and learn.    

details of Banjara belt

Banjara panel

colours by Frida Kahlo

stitched on indigo dyed linen, using threads to hand

having just read an article on the artist I seem to have

unconsciously picked up  a Mexican colour theme.  

Indigo intermission

Uncovered - Banjara blocks, 

hiding in a basket.   

I just love these little pieces.  They are completely

covered in hand stitching, not a peep of foundation

fabric.   Top right is about 4" square, stitched with

chain and close herringbone stitch, with the

addition of tiny white beads.

Banjara Embroidery

I love the vibrancy of Banjara work, from the decorated bags, purses, 

quilts et al.   Bags are usually made of loose weave linen like fabric,

dyed with madder or indigo.   Interlaced patterns on a running

stitch base, embellished with tassels, mirrors, and cowrie shells.

two embroidered belts -these are heavily stitched

over stitch, close herring bone and chain stitch

the top belt has the addition of mirror work

Originally from north India the Banjara became carriers

for the Mughal emperor Auranzeb.  With the arrival

of the railway system they were no longer required.

Nowadays, Banjara, both men and woman can be

seen doing manual labour on building sites and

working on the new motorways being built

across India.  A strange site, the newest machinery

for road building, along side Banjara women moving

earth in a metal dish carried on their heads.   Even so,

they wear their traditional embroidered clothes, 

complete with silver jewelry.  

In Kanartaka, Lamanis, a sub caste of the Banjara,

move to Goa for the season.   The 'boys' run the

food shacks on the beach, their mother's sell 

tourist clothes, bags, scarves etc.  Every Wednesday

there is a flea market at Anjuna, north Goa.  Hippie

heaven, however, here you will find Lamani ladies,

selling their traditional work.

Sonya in all her tribal jewelry glory

detail of the sleeve of her chola

Khumb buttons, mirror work and tassels

I watched her stitching.  No fine thread,

but acrylic wool.

skirt detail - cotton, pieced, with borders

of appliqued saw tooth points.

Inspired by Sonya's skirt, Banjara stitching, here is my

Journal Quilt for February.

and a detail