From the spice market

We took the long walk up Chandi Chowk to find the Spice Market.   I had envisaged a huge wholesale area full of spices, tea and flowers.   What we did find was many small shops full to bursting with spice, dried fruit, tea and the unknown.

After investigating a couple of alleys we did find a distribution centre.  The air was thick with spices - it was like breathing in cough mixture.    Porters carrying sacks on their head or pulling handcarts with impossible loads.

We were directed to a building where chillies were being processed.  Decided to give this one a miss.  Breathing in assorted spice dust was challenging -  powdered chillies really didn't bear thinking about.  We heard later the workers have to cover themselves as best they can to cope with the hard working conditions.

Udaipur,Delhi and home

A relaxing time in Udaipur, just lazing around, with a little bit of shopping thrown in.   Keith's necessary purchase of big leaf Darjeeling tea,  visits to the jewellery shop and mooching in textile emporiums.

Our friend Ranu, performing at Chandipol Ghat.  Beautiful Rajasthani music.

Ranu and his wife listening to Keith's iPod.   He recorded Ranu playing in February.  Ranu was pretty impressed, and very happy when he was given a CD of his music.

So after a few days in Udaipur, with blue skies and the lake (which is getting very low - yet again a poor monsoon), we flew to Delhi.

A bit of a shock - fog, pollution, humid, with a pale yellow sun.   Apparently a weather inversion, cold coming down from the north, sitting over the hot air.   I hope so - been to Delhi many times, but never experienced such horrid conditions.

We opted for a homestay with Pervez and Lubna.   A great choice - made very welcome and home cooked supper delicious, shared with our hosts, and two couples, one from America and the other from Germany.   Much better than any of the hotels we have stayed in before, with the exception of The Imperial Hotel.   Dating back to the days of the Raj, it's the best.  We did treat ourselves a few years ago, but now it is just too expensive.  

One day in Delhi was enough.   We took the Metro to Chandi Chowk in Old Delhi - three cheers for the Metro.  Clean, fast and cheap.  Guess the auto rickshaw drivers are not too pleased.   Chandi Chowk (Moon Square)  is a maze of narrow streets with shops stuffed with fabrics, festive and wedding goods, fruit, veg and spice markets.   A chaotic mass of people and bicycle rickshaws, men carrying impossible loads, and the ever present holy cow.

Metro to Connaught Place, the centre of New Delhi, for a special treat - lunch at The Imperial Hotel - delicious.  Visit to Cottage Industries Emporium (a good place to check out the prices of almost anything from all over India, so you have an idea when haggling with street traders).   Fabulous range of fabrics - at 75p a metre I had to manage to find some space in my bag.

Last sight of India Gate looming out of the 'fog' with a very strange pink sun hanging above.

As so to home.   Down through thick grey cloud, guess we are back.    The trees have really turned autumnal, and the colours on the trees along the motorway (viewed through torrential rain) were quite fantastic.

Our time in India fairly whizzed by.  Varanasi was amazing, Kanha disappointing, made up by the very helpful people in Jalapur.   Bundi a quiet delight, and a wedding anniversary not to be forgotten.   Udaipur is just like going home!

Now to unpack.

(I've linked our home stay and The Imperial Hotel).

Shrines

Wayside shrines, newly decorated for Diwali

Wood

Off to Udaipur

The last two posts were a bit of a nightmare - found a decent Internet Cafe. 

The stay in Bundi was so relaxing, interesting and great fun.   We were here in February and stayed our favourite hotel The Bundi Haveli, and it was good to be back there.   Lovely people, good food, and very comfortable beds!

Visiting Bundi is like stepping back in time, a bit off the tourist trail, so no hassle, just friendly folk.   The palace is amazing, said by Rudyard Kipling to have been made by goblins.   Of course, the paintings are not to be missed.

We had a driver and car for our next stop, Udiapur.    The roads are so much better than in February, two hours off the last journey.

Good to be back, looking forward to meeting up with old friends in town.

Stopping for refreshments

Bundi 2

Underpainting of unfinished painting, as fascinating as the finished pieces.

Sticky keyboard again. and pictures not quite in order, so bear with me! The reason for returning was to revisit the palace and the wonderful blue paintings. I left Keith in charge for the main shots, while I concentrated on some details.

Keith ready to go!

Bird detail

I give up, this nasty PC is not letting me do what I want to. Time for supper and a beer.

Bundi

Bundi - with the amazing palace in the background.

After a somewhat hectic night on the train - I guess people were returning home after the festival, we arrived in Kota and took a car for the hour journey to Bundi. At daybreak the land was now typically Rajastani scrub, with a few fertile area where canals had been channelled from the River Chambray. Very excited to spot The Great India Bustard!
Yes, I like things besides textiles!!
Bundi is a small town, with a certain charm. Not much has changed here, and the tourist industry hasn't quite found it yet. A few organised trips, bit,I think, mainly independant tourists. We were here in February staying in the Hotel Bundi Haveli, where we returned. Great place to stay, comfortable and friendly.

Morning and evening visitors,

from the palace.

Everyday scene - men finishing off brass water carriers. Pounding with hammers to give a finish of dull spots. Oh, how I would love to bring one of these home, but they are just too heavy.

That's it for this blog. Very sticky keyboard!