Thursday, 11 March 2010
Beach Life
To Colva, South Goa, again a return visit. A few years back
we stayed at the Skylark, recently opened by Debbie and Snowkon.
It was 'basic' to say the least, but comfortable. We kept in touch
for a while, so it was good to renew our acquaintance. Well look
at it now. A transformation.
South Goa is more relaxed, less crowded, than North Goa,
plenty of good sandy beaches to explore. The Arabian Sea,
whilst not turquoise, was deliciously warm.
So we walked, sat on the beach, swam, read book(s)
and enjoyed the harvest of the seas for supper.
mending the nets
and away
a traditional boat 'stitched' together
supper
beach boy with a god's head on a tray
and Sonya - more of her later
Wednesday, 10 March 2010
Mysore - Part 2
We had to decide what next to visit. High up on our list was
Chamundi Hill. The last time we were here we took the bus,
and returned to Mysore as guests of a party of Indians on
an outing. How kind, no seats, so we sat, or squashed
ourselves next to the driver. A hairy drive, suffice to say
if you were to walk to the top you would have to take the
1000 steps - it's a long way up, and down. This time,
very sedately with car and driver. The views from the
top are pretty amazing
Sri Chamundeswari Temple
Walking past the temple we found the storeroom
full of festival kit.
including this wonderful elephant
Now to find the 5m high Nandi - Shiva's bull
vehicle. I remember being overwhelmed with
the size last time, no railings then. It glistened
with ghee and marigolds. I wasn't disappointed.
Mysore
A five hour drive to Mysore took us through Nagerhole National
Park. Two hours of 'jungle' - monkeys jumping about, small
villages with at least one domestic elephant. Flat roads,
only interrupted by too many road bumps. Huge teak trees,
majestic flowering bamboo plants. Think upside down teepees.
And so to Mysore.
We booked into Green Hotel. Fabulous. The main building is
a century old palace built for Wodeyar princess - we were in
the annex, our room was huge. A truly eco hotel, everything
is sourced locally, and it donates profits to charity.
First off, forward plans. We realised it was increasingly
difficult to arrange train tickets, etc. Enter the Travel Desk
Man. Our next stop South Goa. He kindly tried to book
a car and driver for two days. We already had spend too
much time in a car, so digging deep into pockets, we booked
a flight to Goa, and from there to Mumbai. And relax.
Next stop Fabindia to replace my torn kurta and ripped
churidar - my I was having a good time! Delicious supper
in the garden, and so to bed.
We had only one day in Mysore, but this was a return visit.
To make the most of our time we hired a car and driver.
Siriangapatham - Tipu Sultan's fort. Not a lot left after
a battle with the Brits. The Summer Palace, Darla Dulat
Barg just beautiful - no pictures please.
Travelling along the road I spotted this cart
The driver tells us that he can take us to the village where
they are made and painted. Apparently this carts are much
sort after all over India.
The motifs painted and being 'lined' out. This brought
back images of my father. As a young apprentice
he was taught this art. As a child, after supper,
the dining table often became his work station,
painting sign boards. Holiday money. He also
re-guilded the church clock - obviously this was
done on site!
The reverse side completed. It seems the carts are
'limited editions'. Several in the village have this design,
but I have the feeling after a certain amount have been
finished, another set of colourful motif are designed.
Sunday, 7 March 2010
To Kanartaka
After five days chilling out in Kerala, we moved on to the next
state, Kanartaka. We hired a car and drove up and through the
Western Ghats. Magnificent. An eye popping drive, through
nine hairpin bends to get to the top of one mountain, and then
down again. Cars, buses, lorries, and even a little rickshaw.
So lush you could almost hear the vegetation growing.
tea estate
coffee beans
a lake at the top of the mountain
Our final destination, Mysore. A beautiful city, and
a visit to the market.
banana leaves wrapped in paper ready to
go - disposable dinner plates
of course, bananas, and there are so many
varieties and sizes. Really yummy.
the garlic dance. I often wondered who
broke up the garlic bulb, imagining ladies
sitting for hours, chatting away at this
task. All is revealed.
Jasmin garlands
paint powder, for paper, body, and
Rangoli designs
roses and marigolds to make
into garlands
Slowly through the backwaters
We walked with our guide through a garden which was a living
spice cupboard - pepper. nutmeg, curry leaves, cumin, vanilla,
naming but a few, plus tea bushes and coffee plants. Lush
and green. Eventually to our rice boat and a morning just
drifting through the backwaters.
Life is simple here - or so it appears.
Glimpses of fields abundant with banana
groves, spiky pineapple plants. In wider
parts Chinese fishing nets. In the water
fish and snakes (non poisonous we were
told). Above bright kingfishers, parrots,
tiny bright birds and raucous crows.
Coconut palms every where, Along the
way ladies making coir 'string'. The husks of
the coconut are soaked to release the fibres.
When dry they are gathered into a bundle
and wrapped in a corner of a sari.
A handful is rolled. attached to a
cording machine. The ladies walk
backwards, feeding the dried coir.
Coconut leaves are woven
Banana leaf mat and coir string
Note the stylish bicycle baskets
Not your usual family pet
Friday, 5 March 2010
Going South - Cochin
At last we turned right at Mumbai airport and headed south
to Kerala. This trip was more about relaxation after a hectic
few months. Lots of soothing green vegetation, harbours,
backwaters - eventually a golden beach in Goa. No rushing
around Rajasthan being bowled over with colour and textiles
this time. Just do nothing! Hmmm.
Years ago we stayed at Bolgatty Palace, www.ktdc.com.
Once the Residency of first the Dutch, then Portuguese
and finally the British. Then it was untouched, just as it was
left in 1947. Now it is definitely a 'resort'. Very pleasant,
with peeps of it's former glory. Our 'honeymoon' cottage was
still intact, minus the round bed. Everything 'squared' off.
The tree still spreads over the balcony, looking
towards the Arabian sea. Tranquil scene, with
boats like these gliding past.
Of course, there are the noisy tourist boats, and in the
evening the disco boats. Oh yes, health and safety
has reached India - all clad in bright orange life jackets.
Taking a ferry over to Fort Cochin is delightful, and there
time almost stands still. The glorious Chinese Fishing Nets,
said to have been introduced by Marco Polo on his way
home from China.
Amazing mechanical spiders, they dip down into the sea,
by lowering and lifting these stone weights.
When the nets are lifted there is a general scramble
between birds and fishermen to gather up the catch.
Small fish and prawns mainly, which can be bought
to have cooked at a local restaurant, Yum.
Strolling through the old spice markets we found
The Ginger Factory - over 400 hundred years old,
The ginger is soaked in lime and left to dry in the
sun. It is then pounded in to a powder to make
ayurvedic medicine, which I am sure will cure all
ills, unfortunately it is only available in India!
another lane, eventually leading down
to the waterfront.
Now that's relaxing, isn't it?!!
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