Reflections

We arrived back a day ago, so I thought I would reflect on our 
Mysore/Karnataka journey.    Our usual destinations are Rajasthan or
Gujarat.  So different from Southern Indian.    Each has it's charms, all
so very different.    The north is so colourful, whilst, I think it would be
fair to say, the south is so green.


We stayed in Mysore at the The Green Hotel which is charming, with 
very friendly and helpful staff.  Our third stay here.   Originally built by
the Maharaja for his sisters, later in the 1950's a film studio.  Gardens
to sit and enjoy supper under the stars.  A great place to wind down 
before setting out on a journey through Kanartaka, arranged by Ahmed
at the Travel Desk. 


The hotel is 5m from the centre of town and run on ecological principals.
All furnishings etc locally sourced, and any profits are donated to charity.


Mysore is a lovely city, with wide tree lined boulevards.   Plenty to do 
and see.   Known for its silk, sandlewood and incense.   The downside
is it appears the only place you can buy material and sandlewood, plus
other 'tourist' items would be the Government Emporiums.  Set prices,
which are on the high side, and no chance of haggling.


However, Ahmed pointed us towards a supermarket near our hotel.
Amongst other purchases I grabbed bundles of incense and - a bucket,
plus other assorted stainless steel kitchenalia.  

complete with it's Fragile label

it survived the journey without a dent

perfect for dyeing

The area around Devaraja Market is worth exploring, very colourful, and 

who knew there was a Hindu festival for cows?   Here's one with a turmeric 

makeover.   Very fetching I think.

I liked this display of rice bags

We left Mysore to head out to the countryside.   A five hour trip, with stops 

for chai, took us to River Woods Home Stay on the Avanty Estate near 

Chickmagalur.   No communication with the outside world, fabulous home

cooked food, and coffee,  which is not surprising since we were staying

at a coffee plantation.   The one thing I miss in India is a good cup of coffee,

it's usually instant.  How could that be when coffee is the second largest

export?!!!

Moving on to the Palace Estate in the Coorg region, this time high up in the

hills.   Three days away from the world again.   Reading, walking, looking

and relaxing.   

Coorg is home to the Kodava people, thought to be descendants of Romans,

Greeks, or Persians, nobody really knows.   Coorg was an independent

state until 1956 when it was merged with Kanartaka.   The Kodava National

Council are pushing for statehood to be restored.  One day the leader of the

party joined us at the breakfast table.   A very imposing character.  Coorg 

is known as 'little Scotland' and he certainly knew all about William Wallace.

He was intrigued to know whether the Scots' still fought the English.  We

were able to assure him that this was no longer so.

So, big ticks for Home Stays, a great way to meet and talk to the local 

people, gain a little understanding of their culture, and then, of course, the

regional food.

a feather from the jungle

A great read on Southern India is On a Shoestring to Coorg by Dervla Murphy.

Published in 1976 it is still relevant.   I read it years ago, and fortunately there

was a tattered and well read copy in the Palace Estate's 'library' to dip into.

So, well refreshed, back to Mysore for a couple of days before our return.

We discovered the University Lake at the beginning of our trip.   Not far from

the hotel, it has a four mile circuit around the lake.  Thus began our excercise

regime.   A late afternoon walk, enjoying watching the painted storks and

pelicans making their nests, meeting with fellow walkers and joggers (the 

latter didn't stop!) then back to the hotel by 6 p.m. in time for a beer or two

before supper.

I always say that India is good for the mind, body and soul.   I certainly feel

the benefit, and not only that, we missed the cold snap!  Perfect.