Now where was I?

ah yes, we were about to leave for Gujarat.     After a little (!) intermission 

I shall continue with the journey.

We left Udaipur for the five hour journey to the small walled town of Sayla.

The Aravali hills gave way to rich agricultural land.     Ahmedabad was not

on the visiting list!    It is such a polluted area, although first time visitors

should go to the Calico Textile Museum.   Such a wonderful collection of

textiles, including the interior of a Mughal tent, richly stitched or painted cloth.

Be aware of the opening times, and be prepared for the doorman who

might or might not let you in.   Ask me how I know!   Grrrrrrrr.   However, 

for some peace and tranquillity, over the Sabarmati River, about five

minutes away, is Gandhi's ashram.   It is such an oasis in this chaotic city.

The ever growing suburban sprawl goes on for miles and miles, and the

traffic is seriously scary.   It's a hide behind the sofa situation!

After stopping for the odd chai or two we reached our destination

The Old Bell Guesthouse

This is only half of it!   The rest is hidden behind more trees.   You might notice

a spot of red on the balcony - it's me reading.    I have had this property in my

sights for many years and it was not disappointing.   Not so far from the National

Highway, but so peaceful, surrounded by countryside.   Build in the mid 19thc

and designed by Colonel Bell, it was for European visitors to the court of Sayla.

Sayla is a small walled town, a bit of the beaten track and off the main tourist

route.   It was delightful, and we were greeted warmly.    

part of the old palace, now in a dilapidated state.  It must once 

have been magnificent.    We were invited in to have a look

around a huge room full of amazing things - a stuffed tiger,

ditto a sloth bear, lounging against a table.  He did look hungry.

A throne, paintings of six generations of ancestors, 

a palanquin which brought a great grandmother to her new

home after her marriage.  Books, maps etc etc.

Our host was the son of the last ruler before India gained 

independence.  A charming gentleman.   Returning to the

Old Bell we met our host, who is his son and had already

heard we had paid a visit!

nice piece of cloth!

testing the local transport

The reason for coming to Sayla was to find the factory making shisha glass.

After years of research I always came up with Limbli, which is more or less

next door.   Absolutely no luck.   Our host has had several guests on the same

quest, and he has asked around, and even as the local 'lord' he has drawn a blank.

I even heard, and later noted, that authentic shisha is not used around here,

instead  thick machine cut glass, and even plastic, is the preferred medium.

I wonder why?   Three hours away in Kutch shisha is used in abundance.

plenty of beautiful patola/double ikat weaving in the villages

the thread is tightly bound as a resist before dyeing

and this is repeated several times with different

colours to produce the pattern when weaving

a beautiful silk saree in the making

and so back to the Old Bell Guesthouse for a naughty 'sundowner'.

Gujarat is a dry state, but needs must!   Sitting on the balcony

watching the sun go down, peacocks roosting in electricty

pylons, oh yes they did, and then the bats flying out from the

roof on the search for tasty morsels.